Repair costs vary depending on your specific system, the parts needed, and the complexity of the job. Every contractor sets their own rates, so we do not publish generic prices. Call us at 317-922-1155 and we will connect you with a local contractor for a free phone estimate or in-home diagnostic visit. Reputable contractors always provide flat-rate pricing before starting any work.

Warm air from your vents usually means one of four things: low refrigerant due to a leak, a dirty air filter restricting airflow, a failed compressor, or a thermostat set incorrectly. Start by checking your thermostat is set to "cool" and the temperature is below room temp. Then check your filter. If those look fine, call us. Low refrigerant and compressor issues require a licensed technician.

First, check your thermostat settings and air filter. A clogged filter is the number one cause of poor cooling. Next, go outside and look at your condenser unit. Is the fan spinning? Are the coils covered in dirt or debris? If the fan is not running, you likely have an electrical issue. If the coils are dirty, the system cannot release heat properly. If everything looks normal but the air is still warm, you probably have a refrigerant leak or compressor problem. Call us for a professional diagnosis.

Signs of a failing compressor include: the outdoor unit making loud grinding or rattling noises, the circuit breaker tripping repeatedly when the AC turns on, the unit humming but the fan not spinning, warm air blowing even though the system runs continuously, and unusually high electric bills. A bad compressor is one of the most expensive repairs. If your system is over 10 years old, replacement is often the better financial choice.

No, and you should not try. Handling refrigerant requires EPA Section 608 certification, which our technicians carry. More importantly, if your system is low on refrigerant, it has a leak. Adding refrigerant without fixing the leak is like putting air in a flat tire without patching the hole. It will leak out again, and you will be right back where you started. We locate the leak, repair it, and recharge the system to the exact manufacturer specification.

Most residential central air conditioner installations are completed in one day, typically 6 to 10 hours depending on the complexity. Factors that extend the timeline include: replacing ductwork, upgrading electrical panels, installing new refrigerant lines, or working in tight spaces like attics or crawl spaces. The contractor we match you with will give you a clear timeline during your free estimate so you can plan your day.

System size is measured in tons, where one ton equals 12,000 BTUs of cooling capacity per hour. But square footage alone does not determine the right size. The contractor we connect you with will perform a Manual J load calculation that factors in your home's square footage, ceiling height, insulation quality, window count and orientation, air leakage, and local climate. An oversized system short-cycles and wastes energy. An undersized system runs constantly and never keeps up. Proper sizing is critical, which is why reputable contractors never guess.

SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It measures how much cooling output your system produces per watt of electricity consumed over an entire cooling season. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. The federal minimum is 14 SEER as of 2023. For most Indianapolis homes, 16 SEER offers the best balance of upfront cost and long-term savings. Premium systems reach 18 to 22 SEER with variable-speed technology that also improves humidity control and comfort. The contractor we match you with will explain your options and help you choose the right efficiency level for your budget.

If your furnace is over 12 years old, yes. Your furnace and AC share the blower motor and ductwork, and installing a new high-efficiency AC with an old, inefficient furnace is like putting racing tires on a broken-down car. You will not get the full efficiency benefit. Additionally, replacing both at the same time often qualifies for better financing terms and manufacturer rebates. The contractor we match you with will give you an honest assessment of your furnace condition during your free estimate.

There is no single "best" brand for every home. Carrier, Trane, and Lennox are premium brands with excellent reliability and warranty coverage. Goodman and Amana offer solid performance at a more budget-friendly price point. Rheem and American Standard are strong mid-tier options. The most important factor is not the brand name on the box — it is the quality of the installation. A top-tier brand installed poorly will fail faster than a budget brand installed correctly. That is why we only match you with contractors who follow meticulous installation practices regardless of the equipment brand.

Standard 1-inch fiberglass filters should be changed every 30 days during peak cooling and heating seasons. Pleated filters rated MERV 8 to 11 can last 60 to 90 days. If you have pets, allergies, or live near a construction zone, check your filter monthly and replace it when it looks dirty. A clogged filter is the number one cause of HVAC problems and the easiest to prevent.

The Department of Energy recommends 78°F when you are home and awake, and 85°F when you are away. Every degree you raise the thermostat saves approximately 3% on cooling costs. For Indiana summers with high humidity, 76°F to 78°F is comfortable for most people. Use a programmable or smart thermostat to automatically adjust temperatures when you are sleeping or away. Ceiling fans can make a room feel 4°F cooler, allowing you to raise the thermostat without sacrificing comfort.

Ice on your evaporator coil means restricted airflow or low refrigerant. The most common causes are: a dirty air filter blocking airflow, closed or blocked supply vents, a dirty evaporator coil, a failing blower motor, or a refrigerant leak. Never try to chip the ice off yourself. Turn the system off, let it thaw completely (this can take several hours), replace the filter, and call us. Running the system while frozen can damage the compressor.

With proper maintenance, a residential central air conditioner in Indiana should last 15 to 20 years. Without maintenance, expect 8 to 12 years. Factors that shorten lifespan include: oversized or undersized installation, poor initial installation quality, lack of filter changes, running the system with low refrigerant, and neglecting minor repairs. Our maintenance plan members typically see their systems last 18+ years before replacement becomes necessary.

Absolutely. Maintenance plans offered by contractors in our network typically include two comprehensive tune-ups per year. The savings from improved efficiency alone often pay for the plan. Add in repair discounts, priority scheduling during peak season, and the prevention of costly emergency breakdowns, and membership pays for itself many times over. Plus, most manufacturer warranties require proof of annual maintenance. Without it, a major compressor failure might come entirely out of your pocket. Ask your matched contractor about their specific plan benefits and pricing.

An air conditioner only cools by moving heat from inside your home to the outside. A heat pump does the same thing in summer, but it can reverse the process in winter, extracting heat from outdoor air and bringing it inside. In Indiana's climate, a heat pump is efficient for heating down to about 30°F to 35°F. Below that, most heat pump systems use a backup electric heat strip or gas furnace. Heat pumps are an excellent choice for homes without natural gas service or for homeowners who want a single system for both heating and cooling. The contractor we connect you with can help you decide if a heat pump makes sense for your home.

High summer electric bills usually come from one or more of these causes: an aging, inefficient AC system (10+ years old), a system that is low on refrigerant and working overtime, dirty coils reducing efficiency, a thermostat set too low, poor home insulation or air leaks, or an oversized system that short-cycles. The contractor we match you with can perform an energy audit to identify the specific culprits and recommend the most cost-effective solutions.

It depends. If you have a standard central AC that only cools, a breathable cover can protect the coils from falling leaves, ice, and debris. However, never use a plastic tarp or airtight cover — it traps moisture and causes corrosion. If you have a heat pump, do not cover it at all. It needs unrestricted airflow to operate in heating mode. Most contractors recommend a mesh or breathable fabric cover designed specifically for AC units, or simply keeping the area clear of debris. Ask your matched contractor for personalized advice.

Yes. The City of Indianapolis and most surrounding municipalities require a building permit for air conditioner replacement. The permit ensures the installation meets local building codes and manufacturer specifications. Reputable contractors handle all permit applications as part of their installation service. They also schedule the required inspection and ensure everything passes before considering the job complete. Never hire a contractor who suggests skipping the permit — it voids your warranty and can create serious problems when you sell your home. The contractors in our network always pull proper permits.

A ductless mini-split is a compact heating and cooling system that does not require ductwork. It consists of an outdoor compressor unit connected to one or more indoor wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted air handlers. They are ideal for: homes without existing ductwork, room additions, garages, sunrooms, home offices, or any space where extending ductwork is impractical. Modern mini-splits are incredibly efficient, with SEER ratings up to 30+, and they provide both heating and cooling. Contractors in our network install single-zone and multi-zone Mitsubishi, Daikin, and Fujitsu systems across Indiana.